Tim Boelter

I am sitting in an internet café writing these words in a rush. I know that I'm missing so much about our experiences these past few weeks but we have been on the go ever since we started this journey.

We should be driving right now, but both rear wheel bearings on the vehicle are being repaired. So this has given Mike and me some time to catch up on our dispatches.

Mike's computer crashed permanently and this has taken a big toll on our ability to send dispatches and photos. We had his computer set up for sending dispatches through the satellite phone and for all photo processing. We are now going to try to use Lao Wang's computer and local internet cafes to get information out.

Kashgar is an absolutely fascinating and colorful place. The city is a melting pot of various nationalities ranging from Uighurs, Russians, Tajiks, Kyrgyz, Uzbeks, and Han Chinese. There is a very exotic flare to this city that seems very Middle Eastern. In fact I don't feel like I'm in China with the exception of being surrounded by bland Chinese style buildings, and of course seeing the giant statue of Mao reaffirms where I am.

After Lao Wang introduced us to his Uighur friends we were treated to a great experience walking the streets. The city really comes alive at night and when you travel to the Muslim parts of town your senses are overwhelmed by everything going on around you.

We have been in Kashgar since the 15th of May. Since then we have visited the standard heritage sites and mosques, and as usual I was banned from bringing my camera into these places. Even Lao Wang's press card and pleading would not allow me access with my camera. So once again I watched in envy as Mike took fantastic photos of Id Kah Mosque and Abakh Hoja Tomb. Mike will fill in the details about these places.

Yesterday (May 16, 2006) we traveled 45 kilometers northwest out of Kashgar to visit and climb around Shipton's Arch. This massive conglomerate arch was probably created by erosion and wind forming what must be the largest natural arch in the world. After an 18-kilometer drive on a rough two track we arrived at a clay wall where a three-foot wide gap allowed access into a narrow canyon. We were met by a goat herder who requested money for entry into the canyon. Apparently ladders have been put into place in sections that would be too steep to climb and we were to pay for this service. After holding up in the vehicle for a quick rain shower to pass we followed this canyon for approximately 30-minutes before setting our sites on the arch. The goat herder came with us and even carried my tripod.

The sky was overcast and shooting in the poor light was anticlimactic. So after taking some photos, Mike and tightened the laces on our trail shoes and headed up the loose conglomerate rock to try and reach the top of the arch to see the view.

Mike and I rock climb and the climbing was quite easy but exposed. The rock that was embedded in the clay was dangerously unpredictable. Before we committed any weight to a handhold we first tapped and tugged on the rock vigorously to make sure it held. I climbed rather quickly up the clay and rock gully, but it occurred to me that getting down would be far more dangerous than climbing up. I turned to Mike and said, "Maybe this isn't such a good idea." He agreed. All it would take is one foothold or handhold to pull out and there would be no stopping for a very long time, and by then that would be it. We spent twice the time down climbing then we did climbing up. But in the end, our efforts were rewarded with the sun appearing. We took more photos and I shot some HD footage.

Once we arrived back at the vehicle I gave the man five Yuan, but he wouldn't take it. Eventually I forced the money into his pocket. We also gave him some biscuits and nan bread. As we started to leave he motioned us to give him a ride down the canyon, so we made room in the Nissan and off we went. When we arrived at his house, or should I say small farm, he invited us into have what we thought was going to be tea. His home and other buildings were quite squat and made out of clay, wood and straw. Goats, roosters, and cows roamed freely around his home. Basically, I think this part of the valley belonged to him.

He motioned us into his home where his wife kneeled next to a wood-burning stove mixing a white concoction in a bowl. The inside of the house was dimly lit and very warm. Although it was very simple the walls were adorned with hanging carpets and the rugs on the floor gave the room a very comfortable feeling. Mike, Lao Wang, and I knelt down in a semi circle where a blanket was laid out in front of us. Soon we were being offered the very bread we gave him and each of us was given a bowl of that white stuff. The only thing I could think is that it had to be yogurt, because that is a traditional food here. So with one spoonful I swallowed the lumpy liquid. It was unbelievably tart to the point that I had a hard time swallowing. But out of respect for their hospitality I felt obligated to finish all of it, and there was a lot. So down the hatch it went. I never ate that fast in my life. I figured if I can just be done with it then I'm free and clear. But then the goat cheese came out and I had to draw the line after one serving. Mike was the last to finish and he too had a very difficult time eating it. We had to get going and motioned to our watches that we couldn't stay any longer. So after our wonderful meal we stood up, exchanged handshakes and smiles and started off down the valley.

I can honestly say that this experience is something I will not forget. It was a great gesture of kindness and appreciation. And to be offered so much from someone who has so little, says a lot about these people. Perhaps happiness doesn't come from the material things in life but through the value of our existence and how we treat others.

Amazing how trips like this can open your eyes.

We will continue writing and sending photos as we can. The most important thing is that all my hard drives and camera equipment are working fine, even after taking some serious hits while off road driving. So I am continuing to shoot in both HD and in the 480 30p format.

Hopefully we will be able to leave Kashgar today. We have only 11 days before we need to be in Beijing and that is cutting it close. If we are able to continue today we will be heading south to Muztagh-Ata before heading east along the Southern Silk Road Route.

Cheers for now.

—Tim Boelter

close window