Traveling China's Silk Road: Dispatches
 
 
Mike Chrisp
Mike Chrisp

The scale of Beijing is difficult to grasp. It's nearly the size of Belgium. There are tall cranes everywhere, there outlines softened through the pollution. The massive reconstruction merely adds to the environmental impact, already reeling from the assault of so much humanity. New road projects abound and the faded brown of reinforced steel, soon to be set in concrete, is everywhere.

Beijing - literally North Capital (Bei = north) only came to prominence after the Mongol invasion and Genghis Khan destroyed the city in 1215 AD. Around 1279, his grandson, the great Kublai Khan was head of an enormous empire. Its capital Beijing became known as Dàd with a very advanced layout and highly regularised urban development. Beautiful Palaces and Courts were built.

The Ming Dynasty set about removing all traces of the Yuan Dynasty and the Mongols palaces and the imperial city were obliterated, to be rebuilt with much of what we see today such as the Temple of Heaven and the Forbidden City. The street plan based on a grid system was laid down and survives to this day.

Today's modern airport is nearly 30 km from the city centre and at its heart lies the Forbidden City. The city is surrounded by a series of ring roads spreading out from the centre and some of the roads become so long they change names many times over their length.

During the Nationalist era much of the city was "improved" through the demolition of ancient monuments and housing. The city's ancient outer walls were destroyed during the 1950's to ease traffic congestion.

The benefits of Soviet technicians have left their mark through grey characterless high-rise blocks of flats and administrative buildings.

There is an urgency to all the building work today. Roadways, urban flyovers, high- rise buildings springing up everywhere.

Let's hope it's all finished for the Olympic Games in 2008. Somehow I'm sure it will be.

—Mike Chrisp

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