April 29, 2001

Mike Chrisp and I are back at Advanced Base Camp today after one night at Intermediate Camp. We had a long respite at Base Camp, but we both are still fighting a very persistant dry cough. While at Base Camp, Mike (a dentist) was called upon by the Russian team to extract an abscess tooth from a climber. It’s a good example of the many and varied health issues that arise on these expeditions.

We are also becoming keenly aware of how difficult a task it is to climb this mountain without Sherpa support. There are commercial expeditions here with upwards of 25 Sherpas. Members of those expeditions who are sick can take the time they need to get better while their Sherpa staff continues establishing camps for them up the mountain. That’s a luxury the four of us don’t have. We don’t have time to be sick because we have to get our gear up here and establish these camps. Usually there is only a small weather window in the month of May when teams can make their summit bids. Before that window closes, we need to have every camp established and ready.

The frustration around our slow progress is really beginning to surface in some interpersonal conflicts within the team. Those are problems that teams, especially small teams like ours, cannot afford. Everyone needs to be on the same page and of the same mind if we’re going to be successful. When people are in such an inhospitable environment, you need to know you can rely on your team members. But it’s the stresses from being in inhospitable environments that fray people’s nerves and make them act in ways they normally wouldn’t. It’s another of the challenges that climbers routinely face.

Mike and I are going to spend one night here at ABC and then move up to our camp on the North Col. We will spend one night at that camp. From there we hope to establish our next camp, Camp V, at 25,500 feet. The route from the North Col to Camp V starts with fairly steep snow and ice up the North Ridge. It’s notorious for its brutal north to east cross winds that commonly knock climbers right off their feet. Beginning at about 25,000 feet the terrain changes from snow to rock. Some climbers begin using oxygen at Camp V.

Most of the other expeditions are progressing ahead of us, so we are praying for cooperative weather, good health, and a few very productive days. Walter and Phil are in Base Camp today but will be heading up here shortly. Then, for the first time, the four of us will be working together.

We will be back in contact after we return to ABC from our sortie to Camp V.

Tim Boelter
2001 British American Lightweight Everest Expedition