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Mount Everest. Even its
name conjures up images of steep icy ramparts, jagged rock faces, and cold rarefied
air. Strong winds scour and pummel the mountain as the summit pokes into the jet
stream. This giant casts a shadow some 250 miles long. It straddles the borders
of Nepal to the south and Tibet to the north. And at 8,850 meters (29,035 ft),
its the highest mountain on earth.It
was the British reconnaissance expedition of 1921 that
determined the only feasible route to the summit was via the North Col to the
Northeast Ridge. Prior to 1938, this route was made famous by seven unsuccessful
British attempts, but it was during the 1924 expedition that George Leigh Mallory
and his young climbing partner Andrew Irvine would disappear into the history
books. It would be another 40 years before a very large Chinese team successfully
climbed this route in 1960. And it wasnt until the 1990s that this route
became more popular with the commercial expeditions. Even to this day the North
Col Route sees far less climbers than the traditional Southeast Ridge Route that
Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay climbed in 1953.The
British American Lightweight
Everest 2001 Expedition of Walter Keller (American), Tim Boelter (American), Phil
Austin (British), and Mike Chrisp (British) will attempt to climb the Classic
North Col to Northeast Ridge from Tibet. After sufficient acclimatization in Base
Camp near the Rongbuk Monastery, at approximately 5,000 meters, a series of camps
will be placed as they climb higher up the mountain. From the North Col (Camp
IV) at approximately 7,000 meters, two additional camps will be placed before
they attempt the summit from the highest camp at 8,300 meters. There
are certain challenges inherent to climbing the North Col Route. Most notably
are the famous steps located on the Northeast Ridge. There are three steps guarding
the summit of Everest. These rock cliffs vary in height and exposure, with the
First Step being approximately half the size of the Second Step. The varying degree
of exposure on both the First Step and the Second Step make these obstacles quite
daunting at extreme altitudes. The Third Step has little exposure and is considered
a scramble up broken rock. But the steps are not the only obstacles along the
way. The Yellow
Band is a steep section of crumbling limestone rock that slants downward like
tiles on a roof. This 400-foot-wide band requires careful footing on rocks that
routinely pull away and tumble almost 8,000 feet to the Rongbuk Glacier. There
are knife-edge cornices, where a wrong step could punch through, sending one down
the Kangshung face, and steep traverses across the North Face with more down-sloping,
and brittle rock. At 8,000 meters, the rarefied air magnifies these obstacles.The
route is hard, and the cold is intense. The lack of oxygen makes everything a
struggle, including the simple act of putting on a pair of boots.The
expedition will start from Katmandu in Nepal and cross the border into Tibet by
truck. It will take nearly a week to arrive at Base Camp and then with the help
of porters and yaks their gear and supplies will move up towards the foot of the
mountain. Its only then that the real climbing will begin.
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