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Technological
strides have greatly contributed to the advancement of climbing and mountaineering.
Almost everything from the tools, ropes, tents, what we wear, and what we eat,
have changed since the early expeditions to Everest. In 1924, the British expedition
had the best gear available for that era, from leather hobnail boots to cotton
tweed outerwear. But compared to today’s modern synthetic fibers, the 1924
expedition seemed severely under equipped for the rigors of altitude. Even though
technology has better equipped modern day climbers with lighter, warmer, and more
reliable tools—technology cannot replace experience and determination, qualities
necessary for safely reaching the summit of Everest.Listed below is a
general example of the differences in equipment used on our 2001 expedition as
compared to the 1924 expedition:| | 1924
British Expedition | 2001
British American Expedition | | | | Cotton
and/or silk underwear. These natural fibers don’t breathe well and therefore
hold in moisture. | Synthetic
underwear (Capilene, Polyester, Polypropylene, etc.). Synthetic materials are
designed to be lightweight and warm. They have excellent wicking properties that
pull moisture away from skin, dry very quickly, and therefore keep you warmer. | | | | Flannel
shirts | Synthetic
fleece or windstopper fleece | | | | Wool
shirt | Down-filled
jacket and trousers, with synthetic shell | | | | Cotton
tweed outerwear | Gore-Tex
outerwear, 8,000-meter down suit designed for extreme cold and wind | | | | Leather
hobnail boots with several pairs of socks. Also used “puttees”—a
bandage-like material to wrap lower legs for insulation. | Plastic
double boots with built-in gaitor and attaching crampons | | | | A-frame
cotton “Meade” tents that weighed between 15 and 20 pounds. Because
of the A-frame, the tents didn’t hold up well in wind. | Nylon
dome tents that weigh about eight pounds. Their more aerodynamic shape helps fend
off strong winds. | | | | Ice
axe made of wood and steel weighing three to four pounds, used for balance and
to stop a fall. | Ice
axe made of lighter and stronger materials that generally weighs less than two
pounds. | |
In general, the food eaten
on the mountain today is quite similar to what they ate in 1924. Much of the fare
is purchased locally and is brought up from the lowlands on yaks. This includes
cabbage, potatoes, yak butter, rice, lentils, eggs, and other greens. Additionally,
climbers bring from home snack foods like candy bars, crackers, cheese, tuna fish,
beef jerkey, dry soups, oatmeal, and noodles. Modern climbers also have an array
of scientifically engineered foods and beverages that are high in protein, calories,
and electrolytes. But at altitude you lose your appetite and freeze-dried meals
are often not as appealing as a simple Snickers bar.
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