May 24, 2001

Hello. This is Walter Keller of the British American Expedition. I did not make the summit on my last attempt. There were a few problems that developed, and I made it to 8,300 meters. At the conclusion, there was no chance that I could actually supply myself above that height with oxygen. I did pay for one Sherpa load to 8,300 meters, so that I could climb higher -- that was three oxygen bottles.

I guess I should recap what happened. I arrived at 7,800 meters to find that my hanging stove had been stolen, so I was without a stove. Fortunately, there was a Columbian team nearby who offered me their stove. However, it was not the hanging version. It was just a simple extra backup stove to be used in a vestibule. That created a problem because in order to get up there with weight limitations, I was planning that instead of using a very thick high-altitude bag, I would just bivouac. And if you use a hanging stove inside the tent it worms up the tent quite a bit and I could make it through the night and go ahead and climb the following day. So that put a bit of a damper on that plan.

The next problem that occurred was I was taking a drink out of my water bottle and accidentally spilled 3/4 of a liter into my backpack and drenched my high-altitude gloves. Then, if you can believe it, as somebody was walking by the fixed line, I dropped my water bottle and almost hit two climbers with it on the north face on another route.

I then arrived at the high camp at 8,300 meters, which is a little bit over 27,000 feet. And unfortunately I did not find all the oxygen supplies that I expected. Basically, I was short an oxygen bottle which would not give me the ability to sleep on oxygen or would not give me the ability to use oxygen for the duration up high. Which, ironically, if anybody has been following the news is the same reason why six climbers were stranded the day I was to sleep at the high camp. Anyway, the Columbians tried to find some oxygen for me and then found out they didn’t have enough oxygen of their own because someone had stolen some of it. So it was then time for me to forgo the summit attempt. I had wet high-altitude gloves. I didn’t have a sleeping bag. I was in a bivy. I wasn’t going to be warm enough. I didn’t have the right stove. My water bottle was missing. Hydration was one of my biggest concerns -- it was almost more of a concern than the oxygen.

So to finalize it was nearing 3:30, and I decided the expedition was over for me and I returned to 7,700 meters. My summit bid day would have been today but it didn’t happen. I still think I made the right decision. It was certainly an interesting expedition.

I hope all the rest of the members are well back at home, and everything is OK for them in their home life. Sometimes after an expedition things can be a little more difficult than you expect.

I’ve now made it back to ABC. Most of the risks, unless I trip on the trail back to Base Camp, are over. Take care everybody.

Wishing you the best from Tibet,
Walter Keller
2001 British American Lightweight Everest Expedition